You can have low shoulders, without having a short back. In this case you don´t have to make both adjustments. Do you have a long back or straight shoulders, do the opposite.

Pin away extra fabric.

Mark your pins, with a pen, and draw lines on the muslin. Transfer the lines to your muslin.

1. Low shoulders -  Work with both the top back and top front piece.

  • Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. Measure on the muslin and transfer the lines onto the pattern. The new lines are indicated with red, like illustrated below.
  • Now cut the red lines, throw the parts out. Make a check measurement, shoulder seams are supposed to be same length and have to fit over each other. 

1. Short back – work with the back piece.

  • Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. Measure on the muslin and transfer the lines onto the pattern. The new lines are indicated with red, like illustrated below.
  • Now cut the red lines.
  • Throw the shaded part out, see picture below. 

2.  Tape the two pieces together to one piece.

  • They have to fit at the neckline. This will give an uneven armhole.
  • Shape the armhole again, by drawing a curved line. 

3. The finished pattern piece.

  • Make a grainline and name the pattern.