• Pin away extra fabric.
  • Mark your pins, with a pen, and draw lines on the muslin with a ruler. This is the easiest way to see how much to removed from the pattern to get the best fit. 

NOTE! Your pattern pieces are not necessarily looking similar to mine. Remember to always follow your lines.

1. Work with the two front pieces.

  • Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. This is done by measuring on the muslin and then transfer the lines to the pattern. The new lines are indicated with red, like illustrated below.

  • Cut the red lines.
  • Throw the shaded part out, see picture below.

2. Now you have five pattern pieces at front. 

3. You only need two pattern pieces at front, therefore the pieces are taped together. (To make this easier, the small pattern pieces have numbers)

  • Piece 2 and 3 are taped onto piece 1, like shown on the picture below.
  • Draw a curved line between piece 2 and 3, this is the dotted line.

4. Tape pattern piece 4 and 5 together.

  • Pattern piece (4 and 5) have a sharp shape and this has to be adjusted. 
  • Shape the lines with a new curved line; the dotted line is the new line. 

5. Place the gatherings again. A full bust has more gatherings than a smaller one. This is done the following way.

  • Measure 6-8 cm. From the side seam and make a notch, this is done on both pattern pieces.  
  • Make the gathering between these 2 notches.

 

6. Finish up the pattern pieces.

  • Remember grain line.
  • Gathering line.
  • Name