Pin away the extra fabric

Mark your pins, with a pen, and draw lines on the sample with a ruler. This way is the easiest way to see how much fabric should be removed from the pattern

NOTE! Your pattern pieces are not necessarily looking exactly line mine. Remember always to follow your lines. 

1. Work with the front piece and sleeve

  • Transfer all the lines from the muslin to the paper pattern. This is done by measuring on the muslin. Draw the lines to the pattern. The new lines are indicated with red, like illustrated below.
  • Now cut in the red lines. 

2. The small part that has been cut out should be saved for later. 

3. The two parts have to be put together.

  • Tape the 2 pattern pieces together, as shown on the picture.
  • Draw the armscye again. Tape a new piece of paper underneath the opening that has occurred at the CF line. The pleat will now be bigger. 

4. Use the small piece. 

  • Measure on the front body piece, the distance from the side seam to where the small piece was removed. Transfer the same measurement on to the front sleeve and make a notch.
  • Measure the small piece and transfer that measurement on to the front sleeve, by measuring from the notch you just made.
  • Draw lines from the notches, towards the bottom line of the sleeve.
  • Now cut the lines.
  • Throw out the small piece. 

5. The sleeve lines are adjusted

  • Tape the two sleeve parts together; they have to match at the bottom line of the sleeve.
  • Now draw a new line, right through the gab that has occurred on the sleeve line. The line shall go into zero in the ends.