Too much fabric at the armscye
With a larger bust you often have too much fabric at the armscye. You can combine this alteration with the alteration for a large bust.
- Pin the excess fabric on your muslin.
- Mark the pin placement and draw the lines on the muslin using a ruler. This makes it easier to see how much you need to alter the pattern.
NB! Your pattern pieces might not look like mine exactly. Follow your own markings.
1. You are working with the front piece
- Transfer all your markings from the muslin to your pattern. Do this by measuring the muslin and then mark the pattern piece in the same way. The red lines are the new lines.
- Cut the red lines.
2. You will not work with the small piece, which is the excess fabric, right now. But keep it, you will need it in a minute.
3. Re-join the pieces.
- Join the pieces as shown in picture 3.
- Redraw the armscye.
- Redraw the dart. It must have the same length as the old dart.
4. You are working with the sleeve.
- Mark the width of the piece you cut away before on the sleeve pattern. Measure on the front piece to find out how far from the side seam you need to place the marking.
- Draw lines on the sleeve pattern to the centre of the hem as in picture 4.
- Cut the lines.
- Now you can throw the small pieces away.
5. Re-join the sleeve
- Make the sleeve hem fit. Turn the pieces so that they meet in the cutting line at the armscye.
- Draw the hem line straight.
- Draw a new grainline, perpendicular to the hem line.