Sewing direction NO. 10 STOCKHOLM

version 1 

 

Find your size:

on the picture you see a size 40/12/8 Compare your measurement to the size chart on the pattern sheet. 

Fabric:

You can use any kind of woven fabric for this pattern. Wool and wool blends are very suitable. The final look of the jacket will depend on the type of fabric you choose, though. None of the versions are suitable for jersey fabrics.

You will need:

• Fabric 140 cm wide  
    o Size EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16/ 2.1 mtr.
• Fabric 110 cm wide
    o Size EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16/ 2.7 mtr.

• 1.1 mtr. lining fabric
• Thread
• 3 buttons
• 65 cm interfacing
• 2 shoulder pads
• 2 sleeve heads

Fitting:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished jacket will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide here.

Cutting:      

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the
version you’ve chosen

Sewing:

NB! The pattern has 1 cm seam allowances included, unless otherwise noted.

1.    Cut all pieces according to the cutting layout plan.

2.    Press interfacing to all facing pieces and to a circle at the collar/shoulder point and at the overlap notch. 

Jacket:

 3.    Sew all vertical seams (side-front seam, side-back seam and centre-back seam), right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

 4.    Sew the front piece neck/centre-back seam. Press the seam allowances open. 

5.    Sew the back neckline by placing front and back right sides together and sew from notch to notch. Secure the seam. Clip notches to the corners of the neckline on the front piece, to be able to turn the fabric and sew the shoulder seams. 

6.    Press the seam allowances towards the front pieces and upwards at the back neck. 

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Sleeves:

 7.    Sew the elbow dart and press it upwards.

 8.    Sew first the long and then the short sleeve seam, right sides together. Press seam allowances open.

9.    Press a 5 cm piece of hem interfacing to the sleeve hem (see how to online).

10.    Press the hem according to the notches. It should be 5 cm deep. 

11.    Set in the sleeves, aligning the notches. The sleeve cap is larger than the armscye and needs to be eased in (see how to online).

12.    Sew sleeve heads and shoulder pads in place 

Sew the lining:

13.    Sew the centre-back of the lining, right sides together, according to markings to create the center-back ease pleat.

14.    Sew the back neck facing to the back lining, right sides together. Press the seam allowances towards the lining.  

15. Sew all the vertical seams (side-front seams and side-back seams), right sides together.

16. Sew the waist facing side seams. Press the seam allowances open

17. Sew the waist facing to the lining according to notches. Press the seam allowances towards the lining. 

18. Fold and stitch the small pleat on the lining front pieces, according to markings.

19. Join the front facing to the lining in the vertical seam. The lining is longer! Fold the excess lining over the waist facing, to create a fold in the lining.

20. Press the seam allowances towards the lining.

21. Sew the back neck/centre-back seam of the front facing. Press the seam allowances open.

22. Join the back neck by placing the front piece and the back piece right sides together. Stitch between the markings and secure the seam. Clip notches to the corners of the neckline on the front piece, to be able to turn the fabric and sew the shoulder seams.

Sleeve lining:

23. Fold the elbow dart into a small pleat.

24. Sew first the long and then the short sleeve seam, right sides together. Press seam allowances open

 

      NB! Leave an opening of 12 cm in the middle of one of the long sleeve seams. Remember to secure the seam in both ends of the opening.

      You are going to use this opening to turn the jacket through during the finishing steps.

 

25. Cut 2 cm off the hem of the sleeve linings.

26. Set in the sleeve linings to the lining, in the same way as you did for the jacket.

Sew the peplum:

27. Join one set of the peplum pieces together at the vertical seams, according to markings and right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

28. Repeat for the other set of peplum pieces.

29. Join the two peplums at their hem, right sides together.

30. Understitch the seam allowances.

31. Clip notches to the seam allowances at the curved part of the hem.

32. Sew the ends of the peplum, right sides together.

33. Place the peplum on the jacket, right sides together and stitch. The peplum ends at centre-front. 

Assemble the jacket:

34. Place the lining inside the jacket, wrongs dies together.

35. Join the sleeve lining and the sleeve at their hems, rights sides together.

36. Join the front edge/collar, right sides together. Clip a small notch at the overlap to make it possible to turn the jacket.

TIP: First sew one side from the back neck to the hem, and then the other side from the back neck to the hem

37. Understitch along the neckline and clip notches to the seam allowances. Press the front edge in place from the right side. 

NB! You now have a jacket with lining, that is still open at the waist

38. Turn the jacket with peplum and everything inside itself and sew the waist, right sides together, from front edge to front edge. Turn the jacket gently through the hole in the sleeve lining. Be careful! 

39. Close the hole of the sleeve lining