Sewing instructions no. 13 PARIS

Version 1

This dress was inspired by the sexy wiggle dresses of the 60’s which hug the body. The graphic look makes the style contemporary.

Find your size:

The dress in the picture is a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest, waist and hip and compare the measurement to the size chart

CHOOSING THE FABRIC:

This version was sewn with a double face Duchesse silk/acetate. But you can use any woven fabric, depending on the look you want. Cotton, wool, heavy silk or viscose is very suitable.

You will need:

  • Fabric 110 cm wide
    • EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16 3.2 mtr.
  • Fabric 140 cm wide
    • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8 2.3 mtr.
    • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 2.5 mtr.
  • Invisible zipper, 35 cm long
  • Thread

 

Fitting:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished dress will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide right here.

Cutting fabric:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you’ve chosen.

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NB! You need to cut bias tape for the neck and the armscye. on the cutting layout plan, the bias tape is marked with Y

Sewing:

NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

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1.       Begin by cutting all pieces in fabric, making sure you transfer all markings to the fabric by clipping into the seam allowances. See how to mark by clipping here.

2.     On the cutting layout plan, you find a pattern piece Y. This pattern piece indicates that you need to cut bias tape (width 4 cm) you need approx. 2 meters.

3.     Sew all darts, right sides together, on all pieces. There are 12 darts in all. See how to mark darts here.

4.     Press the darts on the front pieces away from each other.

5.     Press all darts on the back pieces towards center back.

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6.       Overlock the seam allowances of the

  • side seam on both front and back of bodice and skirt.
  • Front edge of the straight front pieces.
  • Hem of the skirt.
  • Shoulder seams

 

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Sew the bodice:

7.       Join the front edge binding pieces ( H & G) for the bodice as shown on the sketch or see how to join them here.

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8.       Place the binding on the right side of the front edge of the front with the slanted front. See how to here.

9.       Sew along the edge, keeping a 1 cm seam allowance, until the slanted join of the binding. When the needle reaches the slanted seam, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the binding to the other edge. Then sew to the bottom of the binding.

10.   Overlock the raw edges of the seam allowances together.

11.   Press the overlocked side of the binding to the wrong side.

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12.   Place the two front pieces on top of each other, aligning the markings. Sew the pieces together by edge stitching 0.2 cm from the seam along the edge of the dress next to the binding.

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13.   Sew the shoulder seams, right sides together.

14.   Sew the right side seam, right sides together.

15.   Sew the left side seam, until 4 cm below the armscye, right sides together.

16.   Press the seam allowances open.

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Sew the bias binding to neckline and armscye:

17.   Overlock one of the long sides of the bias binding.

18.   Place the binding, right sides together, to the neckline. You need to ease the neckline a bit. At center back, the binding must overlap. See directions here.

19.   Sew the binding in place using a 1 cm seam allowance.

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20.   Use the same technique for the armscyes.

21.   Fold the binding around the seam allowances, letting the overlocked edge lay flat on the wrong side.

22.   Edge stitch 0.2 cm from the seam along neckline and armscyes.

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Sew the skirt

23.   Join the front edge binding pieces (I & J) for the skirt as shown on the sketch or see how to join them here.

24.   Sew and turn the bottom of the long front edge binding piece.

25.   Place the binding on the right side of the front edge of the front with the slanted front. See how to here.

 

26.   Sew along the edge, keeping a 1 cm seam allowance, until the slanted join of the binding. When the needle reaches the slanted seam, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the binding to the other edge. Then sew to the hem of the binding.

27.   Overlock the raw edges of the seam allowances together.

28.   Press the overlocked side of the binding to the wrong side.

29.   Edge stitch 0.2 cm from the seam along the front edge. Begin at the hem and stop 35 cm from the hem. Do not backstitch.

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30.   Fold the straight front edge towards the wrong side, folding at the first marking.

31.   Sew the 4 cm hem of the front edges as shown in the sketch:

·      For the overlap: Fold the front edge in the hemline (4 cm up), rights ides together and stitch the hem in place along the front edge 1 cm from the edge.

·       For the underlap: Fold the folded edge on the underlap, right sides together. Sew in the hemline 4 cm from bottom edge, parallel to the hem.

32.   Place the two front pieces on top of each other, aligning the markings. Sew the pieces together by edge stitching 0.2 cm from the seam along the edge of the dress next to the binding. Stop about 30 cm from the hem, so that the dress has a small vent. The stitches from before meeting these stitches and overlap with about 5 cm.

33.   Sew the right side seam and press the seam allowances open.

34.    Sew the left side seam from the hem and to 20 cm from the hem.

35.   press the hem and sew it by making an invisible hem. Se how to

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Join the bodice and skirt:

36.   Overlock the seam allowances at the waist on bodice and skirt.

37.   Sew the bodice to the skirt at the waist, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

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38.   Set in the zipper at the left side of the dress. Begin 4 cm under the armscye. See video here.

39.   Sew the remaining part of the side seam.

40.   Sew the buttons to your dress, if using.