Sewing instructions no. 13 PARIS

Version 2

The 1960s inspired this dress. The shape of the dress is very feminine, and together with the asymmetric lines, the dress is both classic and modern.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest, waist and hip and compare the measurement to the size chart

CHOOSING THE FABRIC:

The best fabrics for this dress are cotton, wool, heavy silk or viscose. This dress is not suitable for jersey. the dress on the picture is a dubbel face duchesse silk/acetat satin

You will need:

  • Fabric 110 cm wide
  • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8 3.4 mtr.
  • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 3.6 mtr.
  • Fabric 140 cm wide
  • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8 2.3 mtr.
  • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 2.6 mtr.
  • Invisible zipper, 35 cm long
  • Thread
  • 4 buttons
  • 20 cm interfacing

Fitting:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished dress will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide right here.

Cutting fabric:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you’ve chosen.

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NB! Pattern piece m & N are also to be cut in interfacing

Sewing:

NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

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1.       Begin by cutting all pieces in fabric, making sure you transfer all markings to the fabric by clipping into the seam allowances. See how to mark by clipping here.

2.       Press interfacing to the neckline facing pieces (N & M)

3.       Sew all darts, right sides together, on all pieces.

4.       Press the vertical darts on the front pieces towards center front. Pres the horizontal darts upwards.

5.       Press all darts on the back pieces towards center back.

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6.       Overlock the seam allowances of the:

  • Side seam on both front and back of bodice and skirt.
  • Front edge of the straight front pieces.
  • Hem of the skirt.
  • The two short sleeve seams.
  • Shoulder seams

Sew the sleeves:

7.       Sew the two sleeve pieces together at the long seam that has a square shape at the hem, right sides together.

8.       Overlock the seam allowances together. See video of how to overlock the corner here.

9.       Press the seam allowances towards the smaller sleeve piece.

10.   Sew the short sleeve seam, right sides together. Press the seam open.

11.   Overlock the sleeve hem.

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Sew the bodice:

12.   Join the front edge binding pieces (H & G) for the bodice as shown on the sketch or see how to join them here.

13.   Place the binding on the right side of the front edge of the front with the slanted front. See how to here

14.   Sew along the edge, keeping a 1 cm seam allowance, until the slanted join of the binding. When the needle reaches the slanted seam, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the binding to the other edge. Then sew to the bottom of the binding.

15.   Overlock the raw edges of the seam allowances together.

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16.   Press the overlocked side of the binding to the wrong side.

17.   Place the two front pieces on top of each other, aligning the markings. Sew the pieces together by stitching in the ditch of the seam along the edge of the dress.

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18.   Sew the shoulder seams, right sides together.

19.   Sew the right side seam, right sides together.

20.   Sew the left side seam, until 4 cm below the armscye, right sides together.

21.    Press the seam allowances open.

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22.   Overlock the seam allowances of the long side of the neckline facing.

23.   Place the neckline facing on the neckline, right sides together. Stitch it in place.

24.   Understitch the seam allowances to the facing. See video here.

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25.   Clip notches to the curves of the neckline seam allowances.

26.    Press the facing in place. Fasten in the shoulder seam, to keep in place

27.   Set in the sleeves.

28.   Overlock the seam allowances of the sleeve and armscye together and press them into the sleeves.

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Sew the skirt

29.   Join the front edge binding pieces (I & J) for the skirt as shown on the sketch or see how to join them here.

30.   Sew and turn the bottom of the long front edge binding piece.

31.   Place the binding on the right side of the front edge of the front with the slanted front. See how to here.

32.   Sew along the edge, keeping a 1 cm seam allowance, until the slanted join of the binding. When the needle reaches the slanted seam, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot and turn the binding to the other edge. Then sew to the hem of the binding.

33.   Overlock the raw edges of the seam allowances together.

34.   Press the overlocked side of the binding to the wrong side.

35.   Edge stitch 0.2 cm from the seam along the front edge. Begin at the hem and stop 35 cm from the hem. Do not backstitch.

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36.   Fold the straight front edge towards the wrong side, folding at the first marking.

37.   Sew the left side seam from the hem and to 20 cm from the hem.

38.   Sew the 4 cm hem of the front edges as shown in the sketch:

·       For the overlap: Fold the front edge in the hemline (4 cm up), rights ides together and stitch the hem in place along the front edge 1 cm from the edge.

·       For the underlap: Fold the folded edge on the underlap, right sides together. Sew in the hemline 4 cm from bottom edge, parallel to the hem.

39.   Place the two front pieces on top of each other, aligning the markings. Sew the pieces together by edge stitching 0.2 cm from the seam along the edge of the dress next to the binding. Stop about 30 cm from the hem, so that the dress has a small vent. The stitches from before meet these stitches and overlap with about 5 cm.

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40.   Sew the right side seam and press the seam allowances open.

41.   press the hem and sew it by making an invisible hem.

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Join the bodice and skirt:

42.   Overlock the seam allowances at the waist on bodice and skirt.

43.   Sew the bodice to the skirt at the waist, right sides together. Press the seam allowances open.

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44.   Set in the zipper at the left side of the dress. Begin 4 cm under the armscye. See video here.

45.   Sew the remaining part of the side seam.

46.   Sew the buttons to your dress, if using.