Sewing Instructions No. 3 Kastrup

Version 1

This blouse is a light shaped blouse with a small raglan sleeve. It has a slit opening in the back and is closed with a button. This pattern is designed by Dorte from bybak.dk

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern. 

Fabric choice:

This model is made of a cotton/viscose, but any type of light fabric can be used. Cotton, silk, linen, viscose.

You will need:

  • Fabric width 140 cm.
    • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8  1,1 mtr.
    • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 1,3 mtr.
  • Fabric width 110 cm.
    • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8  1,75 mtr.
    • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16  2 mtr.
  • Thread.
  • 1 button.
  •  Interfacing (Fusing) 20 cm. 

Adjustments:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide here.

Cutting fabric:

The pattern pieces are labeled with capital letters (A, B, C etc.) These letters are referred to in the cutting diagram below; to enable you to see which pattern pieces you will need for the version you are making.

NB! Also cut interfacing with pattern pieces B,F, & G

NB! Cut pattern piece D & E x 4.

Sewing:

NB! The pattern has 1 cm seam allowances included, unless otherwise noted.

1.    Cut all your pieces in fabric and interfacing

2.    Press the interfacing to the pattern piece B, F & G.

3.    Use your overlocker/serger to finish the long edges on your facings (B,F, and G)

Sew blouse:

4.    Sew front-side pieces together with CF pieces, right sides together. Pin the pieces according to the notches indicated on the pattern.

5.    Use your overlocker/serger to finish the seams. Press the seam allowance towards front.

6.    Overlock side seams and CB seam, separately.

7.    Sew CB seam, right sides together, up to the notch. Press the seam open.

8.    Sew front neck facing and front piece together in the neckline, with right sides together.

9.    Sew back neck facing and back piece together in the neckline, with right sides together

10.    Understitch the facings and clip notches to the seam allowances*

11.    Sew with right sides together the facing and back piece together at CB. 

12.    Sew the slit opening at CB. Fold 0,5 cm x 0,5 cm and stitch. 

Sew sleeves:

13.    Sew the back and front sleeves together in the shoulder seam, right sides together. Now you have 4 pieces in total.

14.   Paired the sleeves two by two, right sides together. sew in the bottom line. Understitch on one side, be sure to make one for the right side and one for the left side.

15.    Sew the sleeves together at the neckline, right sides together.

16.    Understitch the and clip notches to the seam allowances

NB! Now you have two doubled layered sleeves.  

17.    Sew the front sleeves, by placing the sleeve at the neckline with right sides together. Fold the facing over the sleeve and sew. Cut the corners.

18.    Turn the sleeve and neck facing. press

19.    Repeat this on the back sleeve.

20.    Sew the side seam, right sides together. Press the seam open.

21.    Sew the sleeve facing on to the body, right sides together.

22.    Overlock armscye

23.    Understitch the facing and clip notches to the seam allowances

24.    Attach the facing in the seam allowance under the arm, and the neck facing back, by hand.

25.    Overlock the bottom and hem with a catch stitch or a narrow hem

26.    Sew in a small button for closing, and make a hand knitted loop.

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