Sewing instruction No. 3 Kastrup

Version 2

This blouse is a light shaped blouse with a small raglan sleeve. This version has width on the back and a yoke on the back. This pattern is designed by Dorte from bybak.dk

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern.

Fabric choice:

This model is made of a cotton/wool, but any type of light fabric can be used. 

You will need:

  • Fabric width 140 cm.
    • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8  1,3 mtr.
    • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 1,5 mtr.
  • Fabric width 110 cm.
    • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8  1,8 mtr.
    • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16  2 mtr.
  • Thread.
  • 1 button.
  •  Interfacing (fusing) 20 cm. 

Adjustments:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide here.

Cutting fabric:

The pattern pieces are labeled with capital letters (A, B, C etc.) These letters are referred to in the cutting diagram below; to enable you to see which pattern pieces you will need for the version you are making.

Sewing:

NB! The pattern has 1 cm seam allowances included, unless otherwise noted.

 

1.    Cut all your pieces in fabric and interfacing

2.    Press the interfacing to the pattern piece B & G.

3.    Use your overlocker/serger to finish the long edges on your facings

Sew the blouse:

4.    Sew front-side pieces together with CF pieces, right sides together. Pin the pieces according to the notches indicated on the pattern.

5.    Use your overlocker/serger to finish the seams.Press the seam allowance towards front.

6.    Overlock side seams and CB seam, separately.

7.    Sew CB seam, right sides together, up to the notch. Press the seam open.

8.    Sew front neck facing and front piece together in the neckline, right sides together.

9.    Sew back neck facing and back piece together in the neckline, right sides together

10. Hem back piece, by folding 1 cm x 1 cm, and stich along the edge.

11. pair the back-yoke pieces two by two. Sew with right sides together the neckline and CB. Turn and press.

12. Place the two yokes onto the back piece, right sides together and sew.

13. Use your overlocker/serger to finish the seams. Press the seam allowance downwards.

 

Sew the sleeves:

14. Sew the back and front sleeves together in the shoulder seam, right sides together. Now you have 4 pieces in total.

15.   Paired the sleeves two by two, right sides together. sew in the bottom line. Understitch on one side, be sure to make one for the right side and one for the left side.

16.    Sew the sleeves together at the neckline, right sides together.

17.    Understitch the and clip notches to the seam allowances


NB! Now you have two doubled layered sleeves.

 

18. Sew the front sleeves, by placing the sleeve at the neckline with right sides together. Fold the facing over the sleeve and sew. Cut the corners.

19. Turn the sleeve and neck facing.

20. Sew back sleeve and back piece, right sides together. Be careful an very precise wen sewing the neckline

21. Sew the side seam, right sides together. Press the seam open.

22. Hem the blouse at front, fold up with 2 cm. fold hem around the back piece. Machine stitch or make an invisible catch stitch

23. Sew the sleeve facing onto the body, right sides together.

24. Overlock body/armhole seam together.

25. Understitch the facing and clip notches to the seam allowances*

26. Attach the facing in the seam allowance under the arm, and the neck facing back, by hand.

27. Overlock the bottom and hem with an invisible stitch or a narrow hem.

28. Sew in a small button for closing, and make a hand knitted loop.