Sewing instructions No. 6 København

Version 2

This dress is inspired from the late 1950s, and has a deep back with a high collar at front.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest, waist and hip measurement and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern. If you are two different sizes on top and bottom, trace the two sizes, and make an alteration in the waistline. You can find the alterations guide in the online sewing directions.

Fabric choice:

This dress is made from a light wool, but you can use any kind of woven fabric for this pattern. The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose, though. 

Fitting:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished dress will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide here

You will need:

 

  • Fabric width 140 cm
    • EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16 2 Mtr.
  • Fabric width 110 cm
    • EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16 2,7 Mtr.
  • Lining 75 cm.
  • Thread.
  • 1 Invisible zipper. 35 cm.
  • 50 cm Interfacing (fusing)

Cutting:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters on your pattern, then you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the version you’ve chosen.

NB! Also cut lining with pattern piece I, J & K 

NB! Also cut interfacing/fusing with pattern piece F, G, H & L

Sewing:

NOTE! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted.

 

1.    Cut out all pieces in fabric, lining and interfacing, according to the cutting layout plan.

2.    Press interfacing on pieces F, G, H & L.

3.    Overlock/zig-zag all side seams and CB seam in the skirt part separately.

4.    Overlock/zig-zag all edges on hem facing and small slit part H,G,F.

Sew the skirt

5.       Sew the darts on the back, right sides together. Press towards CB.

6.       Sew CB seam, right sides together. Sew from lower notch up to 5 cm before upper notch.

7.       On front, fold all pleats in the direction of the arrows. They are open towards the sides. Machine baste over the pleats to keep them in place.

8.       Sew the side seams, right sides together. Press seams open.

9.       Sew the side seams on hem facing, right sides together. Press all seams open.

10. Sew the vent on the hem facing, right sides together

11. Sew the two vent parts together from notch to the top, right sides together. Press seams open.

12. Sew the hem facing onto the skirt, right sides together. Sew all the way around from CB to CB. Do not sew the slit yet.

13. Understitch the hem facing and clip notches to the seam allowances

14. Press the seam. 

15. With right sides together sew the vent from bottom and up, to where the CB seam ends. Do it on both sides

16. Turn hem facing inside the skirt and press nicely.

17. Hem the skirt, with a top stitch or a catch stitch

 

NOTE! Now you have a skirt.

Sew the bodice

18. Sew the collar, right sides together.

19. Understitch the collar and clip notches to the seam allowances, turn around and press the collar nicely.

20. Sew the darts on the back part, right sides together. Turn towards CB

21. With right sides together, sew CF piece and front-side piece together. Tip: The easiest way to sew this seam is to start from the bottom and then turn the front-side piece when you sew. I never pin a seam that has two pattern pieces with different curves, you get a more even seam when you do not use pins.

22. With right sides together sew the shoulder seam.

23. Repeat for lining.

24. Place the backside of the collar (the one with the understitch) on the right side of the fabric, the collar end 1 cm before CB.

25. place the lining on top of the collar with right sides together and sew.

26. Understitch the lining and clip notches to the seam allowances, turn around and press the neckline nicely.

27. Sew the armscye, right sides together.

28. Understitch the lining in the armscye as far up you can get. Clip notches to the seam allowances, turn and press the armscye nicely*.

29. Finish the edge of the CB seam.

30. Sew the side seam, right sides together.

31. Sew the bodice to the skirt with right sides together.

32. Finish the waste line seam with a bias tape or an overlock. Press seam allowance upwards.

33. Now you are ready to sew in the invisible zipper at CB. Stop the zipper at the notch.

34. Fold the ends of the zipper down and hide them in the seam allowance. Sew with a hand stitch.