You will need:
Fabric width 120 cm
EU 32–38 / UK 4–10 / US 0–6: 2.80 m
EU 40–44 / UK 12–16 / US 8–10: 3.10 m
Fabric width 140 cm
EU 32–38 / UK 4–10 / US 0–6: 2.80 m
EU 40–48 / UK 12–20 / US 8–16: 2.80 m
EU 50–54 / UK 22–26 / US 18–22: 3.30 m
Lining, fabric width 140 cm: 0.35 m
Fusible interfacing: 0.60 m
Stay tape: 2 m
Thread
Invisible zipper, 60 cm
No. 36 Monaco - Version 1
Dress with an A-line skirt, curved pocket details, and an elegant neckline. The dress features three-quarter length sleeves finished with cuffs. The bodice is shaped with princess seams at both front and back.
Fabric choice:
Medium to heavy weight woven fabric. Wool, Linen, cotton or heavy silk. The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose. The fabric should preferably have a certain degree of stiffness, so the curves of the neckline can “stand on their own” without collapsing. Not suitable for jersey.
Find Your Size:
Take your measurements according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement. Print the measurements chart here.
Fitting:
We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly.
Cutting Fabric
On each pattern piece, you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.
YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PATTERN PIECES:
A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N
Sewing
NOTE! The Pattern Has 1 Cm Seam Allowances Included Unless Otherwise Noted.
PREPARATION
1. Cut all pattern pieces in fabric and interfacing. Remember to transfer all notches and markings.
2. Press interfacing to the front and back neck facings (E, F), the pocket facing (K), and one set of the cuffs (H).
3. Press a small piece of interfacing at the corners indicated on the front and back bodice pieces (A, C).
4. Apply stay tape to all curved edges of the neckline on the front and back bodice (A, C), as well as the pocket opening on the front skirt (I, J).
BODICE
5. Sew the center front seam of the front neck facing (E), right sides together. Sew from the bottom up to the notch.
6. Sew the center back seam of the back neck facing (F), right sides together. Sew from the bottom up to the notch.
7. Sew the shoulder seams of the neck facings, right sides together.
8. Press all facing seams open.
9. Place the front side bodice (B) right sides together with the front bodice (A) and sew the seam.
10. Place the back side bodice (D) right sides together with the back bodice (C) and sew the seam.
11. Press all seams toward the side seams.
12. Finish the edges of the following pieces (using overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding):
Long edge of the front neck facing
Long edge of the back neck facing
Sleeve inseams
Center front seam
Center back seam
Side seams
Front side seam (all layers together)
Back side seam (all layers together)
13. Sew the center front seam, right sides together, from the bottom up to the notch before the curve.
Note: Remember to backstitch at the end.
14. Sew the center back seam, right sides together, from the middle notch up to the notch before the curve.
Note: Remember to backstitch at the end.
15. Place the front bodice right sides together with the back bodice. Sew the side seams and shoulder seams.
16. Press the seams open.
17. Place the neck facing onto the neckline of the bodice, right sides together. Match all seams carefully. First sew the right side of the neckline, then the left side as follows:
Pin the facings and bodice together at center front, folding the center front seam allowances aside on both facing and bodice. Do not catch this seam allowance in the neckline seam. Repeat at center back. Stitch from center front to center back.
Repeat the process for the left side of the neckline.
Now the entire neckline is sewed, and the seam allowances at center front and center back remain free from the neckline seam.
18. Clip into each corner at the shoulders.
19. Clip V-notches around the curves of the neckline on both front and back bodice.
20. Understitch the facing: first along the right side of the neckline, then along the left side.
21. Press the neck facing to the inside of the bodice.
22. Tack the facing to the seam allowance at center front and center back.
23. Baste the facing to the seam allowance at the armholes.
SLEEVES
24. Sew the sleeve seam, right sides together. Press the seam open.
25. Place two cuff pieces right sides together. Stitch along the curved edge, leaving the long straight edge open.
26. Clip V-notches around the curve.
27. Turn the cuffs right side out and press.
28. Place the cuff right sides together with the sleeve hem. The notch at the bottom of the sleeve marks where the two curves of the cuff should meet. (The side of the cuff without interfacing should be facing the sleeve.)
29. Stitch the cuff to the sleeve.
30. Finish the seam allowance with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding.
31. Stitch the seam allowance of the cuff to the sleeve 0.5 cm (1/4”) from the seamline, securing the cuff.
32. Set in the sleeves: place sleeve right sides together with the armholes and sew.
33. Finish the seam allowances with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding.
POCTEKS
34. Finish the long curved edge of the pocket bag facing (M) with overlock/serge.
35. Place the wrong side of the pocket bag facing (M) onto the right side of the large pocket bag (N) and stitch along the finished edge.
36. Place the small pocket bag (L) right sides together with the pocket facing (K) and stitch them together.
37. Finish the seam allowance with overlock/serge or zigzag.
38. Understitch the seam allowance to the lining.
39. Place the pocket bag with facing onto the front skirt (I) along the pocket opening, right sides together.
40. Sew the pocket opening from the top notch at the waist down to the side seam.
41. Clip notches as follows:
Clip into the corner at the marking.
Clip V-notches along the curve.
Clip into the notch at the waist down to the stitching line.
42. Turn right side out and understitch the facing/pocket bag.
43. Press the pocket opening neatly.
44. Place the large pocket bag on top of the small pocket bag, right sides together, and sew together from the top waist edge down to the side seam.
45. Finish the seam allowance with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding.
46. Baste the pocket bag to the seam allowance at waist and side seam.
SKIRT AND ASSEMBLY
47. Finish the seam allowances with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding on the following:
Side seam of the front skirt
Side seam of the back skirt
Center back seam of the back skirt
48. Sew the center back seam of the back skirt, right sides together, from the hem up to 10 cm before the notch.
49. Sew the side seams of the back skirt and front skirt, right sides together.
50. Press all seams open.
51. Join bodice and skirt: place the bodice waistline right sides together with the skirt waistline and pin.
52. Sew the waist seam. Finish the seam allowance with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding.
53. Press the waist seam allowance upwards.
ZIPPER (video)
54. Place the right side of the invisible zipper along the opening edge at center back.
55. Baste the zipper to the dress, starting at the top of the bodice and down to the notch on the skirt (V2: skirt notch).
56. Baste the other side of the zipper. Make sure the waist seam lines up perfectly when positioning the zipper.
57. Fold the zipper teeth aside and stitch close to the teeth. This can be done with a regular presser foot or an invisible zipper foot.
58. Sew the remaining section of the center back seam below the zipper, right sides together. Press the seam open and carefully press around the zipper area.
59. Adjust the length of the dress as desired and finish the raw edge with overlock/serge, zigzag, or binding.
60. Press the hem allowance up by 2.5 cm (1”) and stitch in place with topstitching or slipstitch by hand for an invisible finish.