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You Will Need:

Fabric width 140 cm

EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8 2.5 m

EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 2.8 m

Pocket lining 0.4 m

Interfacing 1.1 m

Thread

1 button or 1 hook and eye.

Zipper 20 cm

No. 14 Madrid - Version 1


Wide-legged with a pleat on the front, slanting pockets, high waist, and a waistband. This version Has a fly and a single welt mock pocket on the back, belt straps, and cuffs for the hem.


Fabric choice:

Light to medium weight woven fabric. Cotton, Silk, Wool, Viscose, Cupro, Linen or Polyester. Works well in fabrics with comfort stretch. Not suitable for jersey.

Find Your Size:

Take your measurement according to the measurement chart. Choose the size closest to your measurement see measurement chart here

Fitting:

We recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished style will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide right here.


Cutting Fabric


On each pattern piece you will find a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you will find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the view you have chosen.

 

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Sewing


 

NB! THE PATTERN HAS 1 CM SEAM ALLOWANCES INCLUDED UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.

1.       Cut all your pieces from fabric, pocket lining, and interfacing

2.       Press the interfacing to the fly (J), welt (L), waistband (F), and (M) on the right back piece(B)

3.       Fold the front piece according to the notches, wrong sides together and press.

4.       Sew a pin tuck 0.2 cm from the folded edge.

Sew pockets to the fronts:

5.       Finish the seam allowances of the straight edge of the small pocket bag and the long curved edge of the pocket facing.

6.       Place the pocket facing on the small pocket bag, wrong side to right side, and sew them together by stitching on the finished edge.

7.        Place the small pocket bag on the front piece, right sides together. See video on how to sew the pocket.

8.        Sew the pocket opening.

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9.       Understitch the pocket bag. Turn and press.

10.     Place the large pocket bag on top of the small pocket bag, align the notch on the pocket facing with the pocket opening.

11.     Sew the pocket bags.

12.     Finish the pocket seam allowances using bias tape, or by overlocking the seam allwoances.

Sew the back faux welt pocket.

13.     Sew the darts on the back pieces, right sides together.

14.     Fold the welt, wrong sides together. See a video on how to sew the welt.

15.     Place the welt, right sides together, according to the markings on the right back piece.

16.     Sew the welt to the back piece, using a 1.25 cm seam allowance, from marking to marking.

17.     Place the facing for welt pocket(K) on the back piece and sew using a 1.25 cm seam allowance from marking to marking.  The two stitching lines must have the same length and be spaced 2.5 cm apart.

18.     Cut the back piece between the welt and the welt facing. Be careful not to cut either. Cut diagonally to the corners of the welt opening, right up to the last stitch.

19.     Turn and press the welt and welt facing into place.

20.     Gently pull the triangular ends from the cut to the wrong side, through the opening. Stitch as close as you can get to the cut without sewing on the back piece.

21.     Finish the inside seam allowances of the welt pocket with bias tape or by overlocking. 

Sew the trousers:

22.     Fold the pleat according to the notches and pin it in place.

23.     Overlock the following pieces.

• The front crotch seam and the back crotch seam. It is important that you include the pocket back seam allowances in the overlock seam on the front piece.

• Side seams and inseams on both the front and the back piece

24.     Sew the side seams, right sides together.

25.     Sew the inseams, right sides together.

26.     Turn and press.

Sew the fly:

27.     Fold the zipper shield, wrong sides together, and finish the raw edge.

28.     Finish the curved edge of the fly facing.

29.     Place the right side of the zipper on the right side of the fly facing 0.7 cm from the raw edge and sew. See sketch.

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30.     Place the right side of the fly facing on the right side of the right front piece. Sew, using  1 cm seam allowance. Understitch the fly facing.

31.     Place the zipper shield along the edge of the left side zipper tape and sew it in place.

32.     Sew the left front piece to the zipper shield. Sew using a zipper foot.

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33.     Sew the crotch seam from center-back to the zipper, right sides together.

34.     Topstitch the fly.

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Sew the waistband:

35.     Overlock belt loop on one of the long sides.

36.     Finish one side of the waistband with by overlocking or adding bias tape.

37.     Fold the loop piece twice, so that the overlocked edge folds over the raw edge.

38.     Topstitch along the two folded edges.

39.     Divide the strap into 6 pieces (7 cm each).

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40.     Place the belt straps on the waist and pin or baste them in place.

41.     Place the waistband on the waist of the trousers, right sides together. The waistband extends by 1 cm at each end. Sew the waistband in place.

42.     Turn and fold the waistband right sides together. Sew the ends. Turn and press.

43.     Stitch in the ditch.

44.     Fold the belt loops up and sew them to the edge of the waistband.

45.     Sew a button hole to the overlap of the waistband or sew in a hook-and-eye.

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Hem the trousers:

46.     Finish the raw edges of each leg.

47.     Fold and hem a 7 cm hem. Stitch in the finished edge.

48.  Fold the hem 5 cm to the right side, right sides together hem using an invisible stitch.

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